FAQs
Q. What are metalsmiths?
Metalsmiths are artisans who work in gold, silver, copper, brass, pewter and other metals that do not contain iron. They use hand tools and centuries-old techniques to make jewelry, flatware, vessels and sculpture. Metalsmiths usually make small objects. Blacksmiths work primarily in iron or steel by forging hot metal on a larger scale.
Skilled workers are often referred to as artisans, or craftsmen, although many people are switching to the gender-neutral word 'maker.' Studio jewelers are generally self-employed artists who design and make jewelry by hand. Some employ studio assistants.
Traditional metalsmithing processes include casting, sawing, filing, forming, fabricating, soldering and polishing metal, as well as enameling and stone setting. The field of metalsmithing is not entirely defined by material, as metalsmiths also work with materials, such as glass, wood, fiber or paper. In addition, a growing number of contemporary metalsmiths are designing and producing jewelry through advanced digital technologies.
Q. What is in the name “Ethical Metalsmiths?”
“Ethical Metalsmiths” was selected because it is a unique name. Our goal is to provide information about responsible sourcing and studio practices that enable metalsmiths to work more ethically.
Q. What is Green Jewelry?
That is a good question! It could be jewelry that is responsibly sourced and produced by an informed and conscientious jeweler. Or it might be “greenwashing,” claiming to be environmentally friendly but without substatnial evidence. Green jewelry means different things to different people.
Q. What is Dirty Gold?
“Dirty gold” is a term set in motion by EARTHWORKS in 2004 to bring up some unwelcome facts about this most magical of metals. Gold mining is one of the world’s dirtiest industries, destroying the land, generating mountains of waste, contaminating watersheds and polluting the air. 80% of the 2450 tons of gold mined last year was made into jewelry. How can gold jewelry symbolize the love and beauty we desire if mining it produces the exact opposite effect? That is another good question!
Q: Where does gold come from?
Gold is mined all over the world. Unfortunately it is mined in fragile places like the Amazon basin, in areas of armed conflict such as the D. R. Congo, by impoverished artisanal miners in Colombia, or on native lands as they are in Nevada. The gold being sold to jewelers and to the public could, right now, come from any of these places. Unfortunately, there is no way to know. Mining companies and refineries do not disclose this information.
Q. What are the impacts of irresponsible mining?
Here are a few:
- Metals mining is the most toxic polluter in the United States. It is responsible for 96 percent of aresenic emissions and 76 percent of lead emissions.
- Each year in the United States, mines generate an amount of waste equivalent in weight to nearly nine times the trash produced by all its cities and towns combined.
- A single gold ring leaves in its wake at least 20 tons of mine waste.
- Accidents throughout the world involving cyanide-laced mine wastes have caused fish kills, severe water pollution, and soil contamination.
- Large scale mining operations often devastate local economies, cause illnesses, destroy streams and water supplies, and lead to human rights abuses.
Metal mining employs only .09 percent of the global workforce but consumes as much as 10 percent of world energy.
Approximately half the gold produced worldwide has or will come from indigenous peoples' lands in the next 10 years..
(Source: EARTHWORK’S Dirty Metals Report)
Q. Are silver and copper mined more responsibly and ethically than gold?
Silver, copper, lead and copper can be byproducts of gold mining. Gold and silver can be byproducts of copper mining; and copper and gold can be by-products of silver mining. For example, each year the Bingham Canyon Mine in Utah produces approximately 300,000 tons of copper, 400,000 ounces of gold, 4 million ounces of silver and about 20 million pounds of molybdenum. (source: Wikipedia)
Q. Does the world really need more gold?
People have sought gold for thousands of years. It is firmly entrenched in the world economy and in the imagination. More than 100 countries hold approximately 30,562 metric tons of gold in reserve (World Gold Council). Approximately 2450 tones of gold are mined each year (Wikipedia). The demand for gold increased by 9% in 2009. East Asia, India and the middle east consumed about 70% of the world’s gold jewelry last year.
Q. Are you calling for a gold boycott?
Absolutely not! It would serve no purpose. Gold can and should be mined responsibly. We would like to see metalsmiths take action, joining forces with consumers, non-governmental organizations, environmentalists, indigenous groups and jewelry retailers in urging the mining industry to make real change.
Q. What do you mean by real change?
True change would be acting in accordance with Golden Rules set forth by EARTHWORKS and the NoDirtyGold campaign. They are principles.
• Respect basic human rights outlined in international conventions and law
• Obtain the free, prior, and informed consent of affected communities.
• Respect workers' rights and labor standards, including safe working conditions
• Ensure that operations are not located in areas of armed or militarized conflict
• Ensure that projects do not force communities off their lands
• Ensure that projects do not take place in protected areas or fragile ecosystems
• Refrain from dumping mine wastes into the ocean, rivers, lakes, or streams
• Ensure that projects do not contaminate water, soil, or air with toxic chemicals
• Cover all costs of closing down and cleaning up mine sites
• Fully disclose information about social and environmental effects of projects
• Allow independent verification of the above
Q. Can jewelers actually influence the gold mining industry?
We think they can. The mining industry benefits from beautiful hand made jewelry, and not just from the profit they make from mining gold. The World Gold Council, the advertising arm of the minining industry recognizes that designer jewelry promotes the desire for gold. It is the most prestigious use of their commodity. You will not see ordinary manufactured jewelry on their website.. See for yourself. http://www.gold.org/jewellery/about_gold/great-designers/
Q. I use very little gold. How can I make a difference?
Studio jewelers and metalsmiths occupy a unique position. Regardless of how much gold you use, the jewelry you produce attracts attention. Your knowledge of gold is precious and the long tradition of goldsmithing is in your hands. Buyers of handmade jewelry value your knowledge and skills and the personal connection they have with an actual person. You have their trust and thus the opportunity to both encourage responsible mining and guide customers into making ethical choices.
Q. I am a jeweler. Where can I buy responsibly mined gold?
Unfortunately, there is no way to trace gold back to the mine, there is no standard definition of responsible mining, and there is no way to certify that mines are meeting any standard. Standards for responsible mining and an independent certification system for large scale mining are being developed and will be available in the near future. Standards for Fair Trade artisanaly mined gold have been established and several mines have been certified.
Q. Is there a way I can help speed this up?
One of the goals of this website is to demonstrate that jewelers and metalsmiths support responsible mining. “Clean gold” will become available when mining companies are sure that there is a “demand” for it. Please Add Your Voice to the community of jewelers and metalsmiths on this website who want clean, responsibly sourced materials. Additional actions you can take are suggested on the WHAT YOU CAN DO page.
Q. Are jewelry manufacturers and retailers calling for mining industry reforms?
The jewelry industry is aware of the adverse impacts of mining and is worried. We hope that jewelry trade organizations and major retailers will take actions that address real issues that lead to actual change. Consumer confidence cannot be purchased with advertising dollars. Read Stephen D'Esposito’s, The Coming Battle over Your Gold Jewelry—Hold on to Your Emotions (downloadable PDF) and stay tuned.
Q. What criteria will be used in the certification process?
A joint effort by NGOs, retailers, investors, insurers and technical experts working in the minerals sector to establish standards is in progress. It outlines environmental, human rights and social issues associated with mining and mined products and has a website, The Framework for Responsible Mining: A Guide to Evolving Standards
Professor Glenn C. Miller of the University of Nevada, Reno has suggested that the following conditions should be considered when evaluating mines:
Climate- Is there too much rainfall?
Geological setting- Is mining likely to produce acid mine drainage? Appropriateness of the type of mine- open pit or underground
Reliability- the company’s previous performance record Regulatory setting- standards and enforcement
Closure plan with bonding
Mercury Plan
- Guidelines should include the following:
Respect basic human rights. - Provide safe working conditions. Respect worker’s rights.
- Operate only with the prior consent of communities affected by a mine.
- Disclose all information on the environmental and human impacts of mining.
- Do not forcibly evict communities from their land.
- Do not operate in national parks, fragile ecosystems or other protected areas.
- Do not dump mine waste into oceans, lakes, rivers, and streams.
- Do not generate sulfuric acid in perpetuity.
- Cover all costs of closing down and cleaning up mine sites. Do not mine in war zones or areas of armed conflict.
- Allow independent verification of all of the above.
Q. Does this type of certification exist in other industries?
There are a number of precedents for socially and environmentally responsible products. Certified organic produce and Fair Trade coffee are available because consumers have demanded products that reflect their values. Wood products can now be independently certified according to internationally accepted Forest Stewardship Council principles. This is a good example of a system that successfully meets the needs of both producers and consumers, while protecting communities, the environment from increasing demands on natural resources. A number of studio furniture makers and woodworkers use wood that has been certified and have benefited from being able to promote themselves as responsible artisans. The FSC website explains how the system works.
Q. Is recycled gold a good alternative to “dirty gold”?
Nobody discards gold! Gold is and always has been recycled. Using 100% recycled gold seems like a good alternative, but the demand for gold is growing, worldwide. Using recycled gold does not prevent dirty gold mining. Most of the gold that is sold today has recycled content.
Q: How do I respond when customers begin to learn about the destructive impacts of gold mining?
Speak the truth. Be honest and maintain their trust and confidence. We all need a system that can guarantee that the gold we use has been obtained in accordance with the highest standards, without violating human rights or damaging the environment. Respond by actively advocating for responsible mining and letting your customers know that when “clean gold” is available, you will be using it.
Q. Will responsibly mined gold cost more?
A surcharge will be required to cover the cost of certification but there is no reason to believe that responsible mining would increase gold prices.
Q. How can I become an advocate for responsible mining?
Educate your customers, friends and colleagues about mining issues. Tell them about this website. Stay informed by subscribing to our newsleter. Get to know your suppliers and talk to them about your concerns. Add Your Voice.